Confessions on a wave in the summer
Surfing is an activity that encourages many to live that experience and others to want it to repeat always. It is an experience that fills you with joy, content, satisfaction, excitement and adrenaline. It’s an unforgettable moment from its beginning to its end.
The white wax on the board, its weight under your arm, all this indicates that you are ready to surf. But wait a minute… what waves? Which beach? Sayulita? La Lancha? They’re both fabulous, so you decide.
This time we are going to talk about La Lancha:
The journey begins, the heat and humidity can be felt already and what you want is to get to the water soon. You start the walk to the beach: Mangroves in sight, logs, rocks, insects playing, fallen leaves, green leaves, wind, smiles, nerves, unknown people and friends too, it is a magical moment that begins to come true.
At last you arrive, your feet touch and feel the sand and the first thing you see is the deep blue of the sea and you observe the waves: What is there? Left or right? The right-hand wave is soft, gentle and long while the left-hand wave is fast and challenging. Then you wait and breathe. And you decide: it’s time to get in the water.
Your fingers feel the softness and freshness of the water and you start to move as if you were a fish in the water, paddling on until you reach the point where the waves begin to break. At that moment your heart beats hard and fast, you decide to state calm and patient so you can try to catch a nice wave.
You feel the moment, you see the wave that you have been waiting for and you think : it’s mine, it’s mine; I’m at the right spot, I’m in the moment and you start padding to pick up speed so that the wave pushes you. You push up with your arms, lift your chest and legs, tilt your weight and start the best moment: the ride. You do this repeatedly. It’s different, fun and challenging. You end up exhausted but happy, cheerful and satisfied.
You repeat the experience over and over again and realize that surfing is not only a sport, it is a lifestyle, a way of connecting with nature, of fostering respect and passion for life.
Cheer up and live the experience at La Lancha beach!